<6t6dnZn6cfbQ4N3RnZ2dnUVZ8iqdn...@brightview.co.uk> Roger Cain wrote: >Works fine on one PC but doesn't spin up (just ticks) and is not >recognised on the other. The indicator LED flashes.
>Anyone know what this is trying to tell me, please?
Is this powered by the USB cable or does it have its own power?
-- Jeff Gaines Dorset UK All things being equal, fat people use more soap
On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 16:39:49 +0100, Roger Cain wrote: >Works fine on one PC but doesn't spin up (just ticks) and is not recognised >on the other. The indicator LED flashes.
>Anyone know what this is trying to tell me, please?
If it is drawing its power solely from usb perhaps it isn't getting enough juice from the second pc. Is it attached to a front panel usb port? If so, try one of the rear usb ports.
> On 16/07/2010 in message > <6t6dnZn6cfbQ4N3RnZ2dnUVZ8iqdn...@brightview.co.uk> Roger Cain wrote:
>>Works fine on one PC but doesn't spin up (just ticks) and is not >>recognised on the other. The indicator LED flashes.
>>Anyone know what this is trying to tell me, please?
> Is this powered by the USB cable or does it have its own power?
It has a 12v wall-wart (for the HD motor I guess) which is delivering 12v by meter. There is also the 5v USB supply which I assume is used by the mini controller in the Freecom unit.
I have just metered the USB supply which looks more like 4.7v. The motherboard shows its 5v bus as 4.4v (!). Current theory is that the PC PSU may be delivering a "5v" supply to the USB which is too below threshold for it to function. Will investigate Seatronics PSU to see if this can be corrected.
> On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 16:39:49 +0100, Roger Cain wrote:
>>Works fine on one PC but doesn't spin up (just ticks) and is not >>recognised >>on the other. The indicator LED flashes.
>>Anyone know what this is trying to tell me, please?
> If it is drawing its power solely from usb perhaps it isn't getting enough > juice from the second pc. Is it attached to a front panel usb port? If > so, > try one of the rear usb ports.
See above. I have used built-in ports and those on a PCI board. Looks like my PC PSU may be too far below spec. to satisfy the Freecom logic board.
In article <6t6dnZn6cfbQ4N3RnZ2dnUVZ8iqdn...@brightview.co.uk>, Roger Cain <rogernos...@nospamrcain.plus.com> writes
>Works fine on one PC but doesn't spin up (just ticks) and is not recognised >on the other. The indicator LED flashes.
I have both Freecom Toughdrive 160GB and MobileDrive XXS 400GB. The 160 has a converter board, the 400 has a direct USB connection on its board (there's no interposing logic board).
Both are picky about USB ports. Using any extension cable at all (even the bit of cable from the board to the front panel) makes the drives misbehave, but more usually I see things like Delayed Write errors in Windows and can hear the drive spinning up and down.
If they are plugged into a rear (motherboard) USB port they are ok.
>Anyone know what this is trying to tell me, please?
Usually a constant clicking means the drive has died (it can't load its firmware from the platters). But I would make sure you try a few USB ports to make sure it is not a power issue before condemning it.
-- (\__/) (='.'=) Bunny's thinking about giving Windows 7 (")_(") a go despite what he's said about it...
"Roger Cain" <rogernos...@nospamrcain.plus.com> wrote: > I have just metered the USB supply which looks more like 4.7v.
That's only just out of range (4.75-5.25V) for USB - did you measure with a load?
> The > motherboard shows its 5v bus as 4.4v (!). Current theory is that the > PC PSU may be delivering a "5v" supply to the USB which is too below > threshold for it to function. Will investigate Seatronics PSU to see > if this can be corrected.
Have you checked the condition of the PSU-to-mobo connectors?
On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 15:11:33 +0100, Rob Morley <nos...@ntlworld.com> wrote: > On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 19:26:07 +0100 > "Roger Cain" <rogernos...@nospamrcain.plus.com> wrote:
>> I have just metered the USB supply which looks more like 4.7v.
> That's only just out of range (4.75-5.25V) for USB - did you measure > with a load?
>> The >> motherboard shows its 5v bus as 4.4v (!). Current theory is that the >> PC PSU may be delivering a "5v" supply to the USB which is too below >> threshold for it to function. Will investigate Seatronics PSU to see >> if this can be corrected.
> Have you checked the condition of the PSU-to-mobo connectors?
I discovered a similar issue with an otherwise perfectly good 'brand new' Mercury 450W PSU I was using to power test setups on my workbench. Testing revealed a 0.3v drop between the psu case and the MoBo ground connections (no case bonding between MoBo and PSU in this setup to disguise the high resistance connection problem in the ground return wiring).
I also saw a similar volt drop in the 5v line. In the end, I had to conclude the issue was due to bad crimping on the 20 way MoBo connector (the wires weren't the single strand type I'd expected, they were normal 7 strand wires with no damage and good solder joints to the PSU board).
Replacing the wiring harness taken from a scrapped PSU (I have a large stock ;-) sorted it out nicely. A little bit of a faff but I wasn't about to scrap a perfectly good 450W double fanned PSU for the sake of bad crimping on the connectors.
On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 14:47:52 +0100, "Johny B Good"
<inva...@ntlworld.com> wrote: > I discovered a similar issue with an otherwise perfectly good 'brand new' >Mercury 450W PSU I was using to power test setups on my workbench. Testing >revealed a 0.3v drop between the psu case and the MoBo ground connections >(no case bonding between MoBo and PSU in this setup to disguise the high >resistance connection problem in the ground return wiring).
My now fairly elderly Corsair is still pretty spot on, according to my MOBO monitor
CPU 1.36v DRAM 1.488v 3.3v 3.36v 12v 12.112v
pretty good eh?
When I finish rebuilding the other one I'll report on its Enermax, I'm doing a spiderectomy
> I also saw a similar volt drop in the 5v line. In the end, I had to >conclude the issue was due to bad crimping on the 20 way MoBo connector >(the wires weren't the single strand type I'd expected, they were normal 7 >strand wires with no damage and good solder joints to the PSU board).
> Replacing the wiring harness taken from a scrapped PSU (I have a large >stock ;-) sorted it out nicely. A little bit of a faff but I wasn't about >to scrap a perfectly good 450W double fanned PSU for the sake of bad >crimping on the connectors.
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